1.1 Mask off

• Mask the repair area to protect the surrounding surface.
  
  

1.2 Rinse

• Rinse with fresh water to remove loose dirt or any detachment on the surface.
  
  

1.3 Degrease

• Degrease the surface with a specialized cleaning product. Use a soft sponge to work the product onto the surface.
  
  

1.4 Rinse again

• Rinse the surface well with plenty of fresh water to remove the cleaning product including the solvent impurity.
  
  
• Allow the surface to dry.

2.1 Remove flaking paint

• Remove any paint that’s in bad condition. This might mean you’ll have to remove all the paint down to the bare substrate. It’s ok to leave any layers that are in good condition.
  
  

2.2 Complete repairs

• If sanding to bare substrate use 24-120 grit on the bare metal and increase the sand paper grit in increments of 100 to create radius rings until final sanding of the surrounding coatings is completed with 280 grit. If the damage is only superficial, start with 180-220 grit and work with gradually finer grade up to 280 grit to achieve a smooth transition to the good area.
  
  
• Single pack paint must only be repaired or overcoated with other single pack paints.
  
  

2.3 Final sanding

• Any bare metal that’s left needs to be mechanically sanded to help the paint scheme adhere to the surface. Sand well using 24-36 grit (aluminium compatible) to achieve a heavily scored surface profile. Coarser grades are recommended to achieve optimum adhesion.
  
  

2.4 Remove particles

• Remove any sanding residue with clean compressed air, sweep the surface with a clean brush, or vacuum clean for best results.
  
  

2.5 Cleaning

• Wipe any painted surfaces with a suitable thinner immediately before painting to remove any final particles. It’s important that the thinner has fully evaporated before you apply any paint. You can also use a tack rag.
  
  

2.6 Application

• The first coat of primer on bare aluminium should be applied within 6-8 hours after you’ve finished the sanding (or blasting).

Priming is a vital part of the painting process as it’s the base on which the rest of the system will be applied. If the base isn’t good and sound, then the overall system won’t be either.

Important note relating to filling and fairing: If you are intending to carry out any filling and/or fairing work please read the following note very carefully.
On all bare substrates a coat of primer MUST be applied before proceeding with any filling and/or fairing. Once this work has been completed then the second and subsequent coats of primer should be applied before proceeding with application of the rest of the chosen above or below waterline system.

3.1 For small repairs

• Use a suitable sized brush or roller to suit the size of the repair area.
  
  
• With any repair, the area to be repainted will need to be larger than the original damage so the paint system can be transitioned gradually to ensure a smooth surface.
  
  
• As a general rule, each layer of paint should overlap the previous coating by 5%-10%. Start by painting the affected area and move out, following the application steps below.
  
  

3.2 Mask off

• Mask off any areas that are not going to be painted such as the waterline with suitable masking tape.
  
  

3.3 Mixing

• Single pack products:
  • With single pack primer mix the paint thoroughly with a stirring stick ensuring that any settlement is well mixed in.
    
    
  
  
  
• Two pack products:
  • If you are using a 2 pack primer, mix the individual components thoroughly.
    
    
  • Combine the two products and mix the paint thoroughly as indicated on the datasheet or the label on the can.
    
    
  
  
  
• In some instances, it's necessary to add solvents such as to aid application or improve penetration of the first coat on wood. For the recommended solvent and the amount you need to add, please refer to the datasheet or the label on the can.
  
  

3.4 Application

• Pour the paint into a clean roller tray or paint pot.
  
  
• Start somewhere where any application overlap will be less noticeable such as on the bow or the corner of the transom.
  
  
• For large surfaces, it's advised to use a roller as it's quicker and will achieve a uniform finish.
  
  
• If you’re applying product with a brush, a good technique is the criss-cross method.
  
  
• Paint is applied to the surface with diagonal brushing from left to right. It’s then spread further with horizontal strokes before finally laying off with light vertical strokes. This applies a uniform layer of paint and allows the brush marks to flow out better.
  
  
• Apply sufficient paint for the product to flow, but not so much to make it sag or run as it can be hard to remove them later. If you do see any sags or runs, brush them out as soon as possible.
  
  

3.5 Overcoating

• Most products will require more than one application or coat as per datasheet or label on the can.
  
  
• If any filling is required this should be done after the first coat of primer is applied.
  
  
• If additional coats are required, follow the recommended overcoating times as per the datasheet or label on the can.
  
  
• Most primers have extended recoat times, so you can apply the required number of coats without having to sand in-between. If you exceed the maximum overcoating time, you will need to sand the surface with 120-180 before applying the next coat.
  
  
• Product performance is based upon the film thickness, so please make sure the recommended number of coats are applied.
  
  

3.6 Final sanding

• Once all the primer coats have been applied and cured, sand the entire surface using 180 - 240 grit paper. Make sure you don’t expose any substrate. If you do, you’ll need to re-prime those areas and feather the edges back in once it’s cured to avoid the edge of the patch showing through to the final finish.
  
  

3.7 Clean surface

• Dust down with a lint-free cloth or suitable tack rag.
  
  
• If there is any risk that the surface has been contaminated with oil or grease (e.g. fingerprints), wipe with a suitable thinner prior to applying the undercoat.

If you’re doing repair work, carefully inspect for any damage including fine cracks and any material that’s poorly adhered. Small repairs and filling on new boats can be easily tackled. However, any work that’s over a larger area or might affect the structure or hull integrity, should be referred to a professional for proper assessment.

It's recommended to apply a layer of primer before application of filler. Please see step relating to the application of primer.

Important note relating to filling and fairing: If you are intending to carry out any filling and/or fairing work please read the following note very carefully.
On all bare substrates a coat of primer MUST be applied before proceeding with any filling and/or fairing. Once this work has been completed then the second and subsequent coats of primer should be applied before proceeding with application of the rest of the chosen above or below waterline system.

4.1 Mask off

• Mask off any areas that are not going to be painted such as topsides on the waterline with suitable masking tape.
  
  

4.2 Mixing

• Most fillers used in the marine environment are two pack epoxy based fillers. For more specific information, please refer to the datasheet or the label on the can.
  
  
• Two pack products:
  • Measure out part A and part B onto a clean mixing board using the specified mix ratio.
    
    
  • Using a palette knife or spatula, mix the two components together until you achieve a uniform colour with no streaks.
    
    
  
  
  
• To maximise the working time of the product, spread it out over the mixing board to prevent it curing too quickly.
  
  

4.3 Application

• The best way is to apply filler using a palette knife, spatula or any other suitable tools in smooth, thin layers. Try not to apply too much in one go. You may need to apply multiple layers.
  
  
• Allow it to cure following the instructions on the datasheets or label.
  
  
• When carrying out any filling work, the edge of all the areas filled should be well chamfered/beveled to at least a 6:1 ratio. For example, if you have a depth of 5mm to fill, the edge needs feathering back at least 30 mm before being primed and refilled.
  
  

4.4 Sanding

• After the filler has been applied and has cured, you need to smooth the surface using a sanding block that will ideally be larger than the filled area. The larger the filled area, the larger the block will need to be to sand it.
  
  
• Initial sanding can be completed with 80 grit. If additional filler needs to be applied, remove the dust from the surface and follow the previous step. Once the surface is smooth and no more filler is needed, final sanding can be completed with 120-180 grit.
  
  

4.5 Clean surface

• Wipe the surface with a suitable solvent immediately before painting to remove any final particles. It’s important that the solvent has fully evaporated before you apply any paint. You can also use a tack rag.
  
  

4.6 Overcoating

• Apply additional coats of primer over the filler and surrounding area.
  
  
• Most primers have extended recoat times, so you can apply the required number of coats without having to sand in-between. If you exceed the maximum overcoating time, you will need to sand the surface with 120-180 before applying the next coat.

Undercoating requires more care and attention than priming as the aim is to apply an even overall coat with the smoothest possible finish so that when sanded back, you don’t sand through to the primer.

5.1 For small repairs

• Use a suitable sized brush or roller to suit the size of the repair area.
  
  
• Small areas less than about credit card sized can be primed using scrap pieces of suitable foam or a foam brush and dabbing the primer on and using a new piece for each subsequent coat.
  
  
• With any repair, the area to be repainted will need to be larger than the original damage so the paint system can be transitioned gradually to ensure a smooth surface.
  
  
• As a general rule, each layer of paint should overlap the previous coating by 5%-10%. Start by painting the affected area and move out, following the application steps below.
  
  

5.2 Mixing

• Single pack products:
  • With single pack undercoats mix the paint thoroughly with a stirring stick ensuring that any settlement is well mixed in.
    
    
  
  
  
• Two pack products:
  • If you are using a 2 pack undercoat, mix the individual components thoroughly.
    
    
  • Combine the two products and mix the paint thoroughly as indicated on the datasheet or the label on the can.
    
    
  
  
  
• In some instances, it's necessary to add solvents such as to aid application or improve penetration of the first coat on wood. For the recommended solvent and the amount you need to add, please refer to the datasheet or the label on the can.
  
  

5.3 For small repairs again

• When applying the undercoat, apply the first coat over any exposed primer.
  
  
• Then apply the following coat(s) beyond each previous coat.
  
  
• Once the undercoat has cured, sand the surface using 320 grit paper. Make sure you don’t expose any primer. If you do, you’ll need to re-undercoat those areas and feather the edges back in once it’s cured to avoid the edge of the patch showing through to the final finish.
  
  

5.4 Application

• Pour the paint into a clean roller tray or paint pot. Two pack products have a limited pot life when mixed. Refer to label or technical data sheet for further information.
  
  
• Start somewhere where any application overlap will be less noticeable such as on the bow or the corner of the transom.
  
  
• For large surfaces, it's advised to use a roller as it's quicker and will achieve a uniform finish.
  
  
• If you’re applying product with a brush, a good technique is the criss-cross method.
  
  
• Paint is applied to the surface with diagonal brushing from left to right. It’s then spread further with horizontal strokes before finally laying off with light vertical strokes. This applies a uniform layer of paint and allows the brush marks to flow out better.
  
  
• Apply sufficient paint for the product to flow, but not so much to make it sag or run as it can be hard to remove them later. If you do see any sags or runs, brush them out as soon as possible.
  
  

5.5 Overcoating

• If you are applying more than 1 coat apply the subsequent coats in a similar fashion. If you’re applying another coat after the ‘recoat without sanding’ time (as per the data sheet or label instructions), sand the whole surface using 280 grit paper and dust down with a lint-free cloth or suitable tack rag.
  
  

5.6 Final sanding

• Once all the undercoats have been applied and cured, sand the entire surface using 320 - 400 grit paper. Make sure you don’t expose any primer. If you do, you’ll need to re-undercoat those areas and feather the edges back in once it’s cured to avoid the edge of the patch showing through to the final finish.
  
  
• The finish you obtain on this section will mirror exactly what you will see with the finish coat. Using a suitable Sanding Guide Coat will help you see where you have and haven’t sanded.
  
  

5.7 Clean surface

• Dust down with a lint-free cloth or suitable tack rag.
  
  
• If there is any risk that the surface has been contaminated with oil or grease (e.g. fingerprints), wipe with a suitable thinner prior to applying the topcoat.

6.1 For small repairs

• For small repairs such as scratches (where the remaining paint system is still in good condition), small or artist sized brushes may be suitable to apply the topcoat.
  
  
• Rollers may not be required if the area to be painted is very small but if required you can obtain smaller types from various hardware stores. Some are often called radiator rollers that are very good for small and difficult to reach areas.
  
  
• With any repair the area to be repainted will need to be larger than the actual repaired area so the paint system can be transitioned gradually to avoid sharp demarcation lines.
  
  

6.2 Mask off

• Mask off any areas that are not going to be painted such as fittings and the waterline with suitable masking tape.
  
  

6.3 Mixing

• Single pack products:
  • With single pack topcoats, mix the paint thoroughly with a stirring stick ensuring that any settlement is well mixed in.
    
    
  
  
  
• Two pack products:
  • If you are using a 2 pack topcoat, mix the individual components thoroughly.
    
    
  • Combine the two products and mix the paint thoroughly as indicated on the datasheet or the label on the can. Two pack products have a limited pot life when mixed. Refer to label or technical data sheet for further information.
    
    
  
  
  
• It is usually necessary to add solvents to aid application or improve flow. For the recommended solvent and the amount you need to add, please refer to the datasheet or the label on the can.
  
  

6.4 For small repairs again

• Apply the paint thinner towards the outer edges of the repair so reduces the edge thickness which will help make the repair less noticeable.
  
  
• You can achieve this by physically spreading the paint out further or thinning the paint with the brushing thinner recommended for the product. The thinned paint can be spread out more easily and will result in a thinner film. Thin between 5-10%.
  
  

6.5 Wipe down

• Wipe the surface with a tack rag to remove all final traces of dust.
  
  

6.6 Application

• Pour the paint into a clean roller tray or paint pot.
  
  
• Start somewhere where any application overlap will be less noticeable such as on the bow or the corner of the transom.
  
  
• Taking one or two square metres at a time, paint the masked off edges or difficult areas with a small brush first.
  
  
• The best method for applying topcoat to a larger area is by using a roller to apply it to the surface, and use a brush at a 45 degree angle to smooth out the wet paint (this called the roll and tip method).
  
  
• If you’re applying product with a brush, a good technique is the criss-cross method.
  
  
• Paint is applied to the surface with diagonal brushing from left to right. It’s then spread further with horizontal strokes before finally laying off with light vertical strokes. This applies a uniform layer of paint and allows the brush marks to flow out better.
  
  
• Apply sufficient paint for the product to flow, but not so much to make it sag or run as it can be hard to remove them later. If you do see any sags or runs, brush them out as soon as possible.
  
  

6.7 Overcoating

• If any of the coats you apply develops runs or sags, or has contamination in it that needs to be sanded out, use 320 grit.
  
  
• You can apply the next coat within the recommended overcoating time.
  
  
• For the best aesthetic results, we recommend a light sand between coats.
  
  
• If you exceed the maximum overcoating time, you must sand the surface with 320-400 before applying the next coat.
  
  
• If the surface has been sanded, wipe with a tack rag before applying the next coat.
  
  

6.8 Finishing up

• To clean equipment, use the recommended solvent from the datasheet or the label on the can.
  
  
• For waste disposal please refer to the top of this guide.
  
  
• After the final coat, remove any masking tape whilst the paint is still wet. This will give you a clean painted edge.
  
  

Important:

• It is possible that the repaired area may show a colour difference when compared to the original finish* To minimise colour differences, try and carry the repainted area out to defined panel edges or join lines; for example if you have repaired a transom then you could repaint the whole transom. If you are repairing a hatch repaint the whole hatch.
  
  
• If you have made a patch repair on one side of a hull only, then you might be faced with repainting all of that hull side as there are unlikely to be any suitable edges.
  
  
• It is not recommended that DIY painters attempt to cut and polish the edges of a repaired area. Doing so would lead to irreversible damage to the finish resulting in premature loss of gloss and possibly a greater colour change over-time. Products that are capable of being cut and polished are generally for professional use only.